Liberec – the overlooked gem of Czech Republic

Have you ever visited the place on numerous occasions yet never actually saw it? And when you finally went there strictly for tourism purposes you fell for the place big time? That was my story with Liberec, Czech Republic.

My story with Liberec

Before I start telling you how amazing Liberec is let me give you a little background of how come I’ve never really seen the city. Since I was a little kid I was really interested in winter sports, especially in ski jumping (for my Polish readers: it was well before the whole Adam Małysz craziness has started). There was something fascinating about the men who can fly, even if for just few brief moments.

The passion was so strong that I started attending with friends ski jumping competitions in Poland and further in Europe, first as a regular fan, later as some sort of journalist (nothing too serious, we were just writing for websites about the sport). When the above mentioned craziness in Poland has started and every single person was an expert about ski jumping we moved to Nordic combined – even better discipline where besides ski jumping you also have cross country skiing (which looks boring in TV but is so exciting when watched live!).

Until I was 24 winter sports have been a huge part of my life and that’s also what has brought me to Liberec, many times! But always it was winter time and I spent majority of the time at sport venues. When the competitions were over it was already dark to actually see the city so despite visiting Liberec so many times all I could tell about it was that it has a beautiful town hall.

Finally it has changed! I went to Liberec for 3 days, to focus on actually seeing the city. And very quickly I fell in love with it! Even if we’re only half way through 2017 I already dare to say Liberec was my best travel discovery of the year! And while before going I was slightly skeptical about spending 3 days there it turned out it was not enough to see everything the city has to offer! If you decide to visit Liberec you’re in for a big treat!

Short history of Liberec, Czech Republic

I bet many of you has never heard of Liberec yet it’s the 5th biggest city in Czech Republic, located only 1 hour north from Prague.

The settlement in this place was first mentioned in 1348 and, since it was conveniently located on the trade routes between Bohemia and Poland or Germany it gained city rights 200 years later. Liberec developed together with clothes making industry present here from 16th century but the peak of prosperity came at the end of 19th and beginning of 20th century when the city was part of Austria-Hungary empire. The majority of stunning architecture that makes Liberec so beautiful dates to that period.

Between wars the city was shortly part of Germany (as the German majority didn’t want to lose the privileges they had in Habsburg Empire and instead of being part of the newly born Czech Republic they preferred Liberec – then Reichenberg – to be under German rule) only to become Czech Republic after WW2.

Beautiful Main Square and stunning Liberec Town Hall

If you arrive to Liberec by yellow bus from Prague (I highly recommend it!) you’ll find yourself at the edge of the old town. Just a short walk up on (mostly) pedestrian streets Moskevska or Prazska and you will get to the main square – Namesti Edvarda Benese.

The square looks really beautiful, with the colorful houses around, one prettier than another. The building that definitely catches the attention here is Hotel Praha – a great example of art nouveau architecture. It was built in 1906 at the time when Liberec bloomed thanks to the Czech-German fair / exhibition.

It’s worth to step inside to see even more of beautiful art deco details in the lobby! You can even stay here overnight! Click here to check details and prices!

But the most outstanding building at the market square or maybe in the whole city is the new town hall.

Liberec had a smaller town hall in the same square previously but at the end of 19th century it was not enough for a developing city. It was decided that the new, bigger town hall is much needed for the wealthy Liberec. If you look closely on the main square you can see on the ground how the outline of the old town hall is marked there. Compare it to the new building and you will see the difference right away!

The new town hall was built between 1882 and 1893 (although the writing on the facade says 1892 as that’s when emperor Franz Josef was visiting Liberec and the city wanted to look as good as possible). When you see it first it looks familiar – that’s why its Neo-Renaissance-style, designed by the Viennese architect Franz Neumann, was based on the town hall in Vienna, Austria. It’s stunning from the outside but once you go inside your jaw will drop – mine did!

The interior is a real masterpiece with incredible stained glass windows, decorated ceilings and beautiful furniture. But the real gem is hidden in the back – the ceremonial hall. I literally said ‘wow” out loud when I entered and I took only three pictures inside (so not like me!) as I was so impressed with the place! It was most likely the most beautiful hall I’ve ever seen!

I’m not the only one who thinks the ceremonial hall is incredibly stunning. Very often Liberec plays in both Czech and international movies. Recently the National Geography series “Genius” about Albert Einstein was filmed here and the ceremonial hall played an important role of the place where Einstein was teaching his students about time. There is a small sneak peak of the scene that you should watch to see how beautiful the place is!

There is one more reason why it’s really worth to visit the town hall – you can see the city and surrounding mountains from above! You might visit the balcony on the first floor – the very same place from where well known people such as Hitler or Vaclav Havel gave speeches. But you might also go to the tower and have the best view over Liberec center, the rooftops and Jizerkse Mountains surrounding the city. This is probably the best view you will see in Liberec!

The town hall isn’t the only building in Liberec with a strong connection to Vienna. The F. X. Šalda Theatre, located just behind, was also built in Neo-Reneissance style, so similar to the buildings of that kind from this period. It really reminds me of theaters in Cieszyn, Chernivtsi and especially opera in Budapest or Vienna (after all all these places were the part of the same country when those buildings were built).

I haven’t been inside as at the time of my visit the theater played on the scene at the main square. Too bad as the pictures of the interior look amazing! What’s more the curtain on the scene was made in the Gustav Klimt’s atelier in Vienna!

More of Liberec attractions

But there is so much more to Liberec than just the main square and the town hall. You can take any street from there and you will stumble across beautiful architecture from the turn of the centuries.

On Felberova there’s a bank building – when you look closely through the windows you might spot the stunning ceiling inside. A little bit further you will find the chateau (sadly closed now) and Grandhotel Zlaty Lev built in the art nouveau style for the 1906 fair.

In the other direction, further in Zelazna street you will see beautiful Wallenstein’s houses – the oldest buildings in Liberec, dating back to the end of 17th century. There are only three of them, incorporated into school building but they still look adorable.

Church of the Holy Cross – another gem of Liberec

A little bit further there’s Church of the Holy Cross.

When you look closely it doesn’t have the cross on the main tower – I’ve seen similar practices in Ivano-Frankivsk, Ukraine. As you might know Czech Republic isn’t much of the religious country and churches have a rather marginal part here. This very building (that used to be the first public library in Liberec in 1759) operates as the temple for few religions that are present in the city.

The Church of the Holy Cross is among the most precious buildings in the city and even if it doesn’t look so spectacular from the outside you should step inside if you have a chance. It was another “wow moment” for me in Liberec.

On Sunday morning (around 10am) I followed the people inside and instantly was transformed to a fairy tale. I think gathered people were waiting for the Orthodox mass (as I could hear a lot of Ukrainian language around). The women choir was singing religious songs a capella, their voices were so strong and so clear, the original 18th century interior (even if it was a little crumbling here and there) made a perfect scenery for the little concert and together with the smell of the incense it all created this perfect moment when everything just felt right.

It was forbidden to take pictures inside and I’m actually glad about it as I could fully focus on the moment, cherishing the little concert I could attend.

Liberec villas – my favorite part of the city!

If you want to see a calmer face of the city yet still in the center of Liberec then go for a walk in the residential area behind the town hall, along Masarykova street and surroundings. This must be my favorite and the most surprising part of Liberec.

At the times of the prosperity at the turnout of centuries each wealthy family wanted to own a fancy villa in the center. The buildings were also supposed to be kind of a show-off for Franz Josef’s visits and 1906 exhibition hence they are all located in one area.

I was surprised how many of these villas are there! The most beautiful ones are located along Masarykova street but every street in the area hides some gems. The majority of villas are renovated, in a really good shape and are a real treat for an eye!

I enjoyed this area so much I was even picturing myself living in one of such villas, even only for a month, having a room in the tower with a view of surrounding mountains! That would be a perfect place to catch up on all the writing!