I love Prague.
I’ve been visiting the city on regular basis for the past 15 years and it never gets boring to me.
The view of Charles Bridge or Hradcany always takes my breath away, no matter how many times I’ve seen it before.
But to be honest, recently I just skip the major tourist attractions in Prague and focus on regular districts, where the life goes by at its own pace.
And so right now I can’t imagine any visit to Prague without at least a quick stop in Holesovice.
I remember the first time I arrived in Holesovice.
It was a pure accident, I missed my tram stop and ended up at Strossmayerovo Namesti, in the very heart of the district.
I’m not gonna say it was love at first sight (like it was with Prague in general) but there was definitely something intriguing about the place that got me curious.
Now, numerous visits later, I’ve fallen for Holesovice.
Great help with those feelings was definitely Prague Alternative Tour that, among other places, covers Holesovice. I took it a few years ago and it was the first time when I properly saw (and loved!) Holesovice.
The tour itself was great and really helped me to see another face of Prague. Click here to read more about the tour and book it for yourself!
Recently the district was named one of the coolest in Europe and I completely agree with this title.
Holesovice currently goes through the process of gentrification but as a result tourist get the perfect alternative to Prague’s picture perfect tourist attractions.
You can spend the whole weekend in Holesovice and still you won’t see all it has to offer!
Here is my mini guide to Holesovice – the heart of hipster Prague.
- Airport transfer: Pre-book the airport transfer from Prague airport to your accommodation in Prague here.
- Where to stay in Holesovice: Mama Shelter Prague (8.9/10) / Plaza Prague Hotel (9.2/10)
- Best Holesovice tour: Alternative Prague Walking Tour
- Save money on exchange rates with Revolut pre-paid card (I’ve been using it for years now). Order your bank card here.
- Get insured for your trip to Czech Republic with SafetyWing
How to get to Holesovice?
Even if Holesovice is located away from the tourist crowds it’s actually very easy and quick to get there. Just take the metro line C (red) to Vltavska or Nadrazi Holesovice and you’re there.
Alternatively, you can take the tram: no. 6 from Vaclavske Namesti, no. 12 from Mala Strana / Malostranska metro or no. 17 from National Theater / Charles Bridge / Staromestska metro.
Here you can find the map of Prague public transport (click on the picture to open in the new window enlarge it):
What to see in Holesovice?
Wandering around, especially in Letna area, is a treat itself and this part of Prague has really beautiful architecture, a mix of tenement houses from the end of 19th / beginning of 20th century I assume and newer, often modernist, buildings.
You can just aimlessly walk around and just enjoy the place. But there are a couple of places worth seeing anyway!
- Vystaviste – Prague Exhibition Grounds founded in 1981 for the Jubilee Czech Exhibition.
These days it’s the venue of many cultural events, I myself was there at System of a Down concert in 2013.
The most distinctive building is the Industrial Palace, a beautiful art nouveau gem made from steel and glass.
Most tourists visiting Vystaviste come here to see Krizik Fountain – a technical masterpiece at the times when it was created. It gives a wonderful musical show, with light and water synchronized with the songs.
It’s best to be here in the evening to see the Fountain at its best performance.
- Strossmayerovo Namesti – the main square in the area and the important transport hub.
It’s best known for the St.Anthony of Padua Church, built in years 1908-1911.
- Letna Park offering some of the best views in Prague, especially from the area around the metronome.
In this very spot the largest monument of Stalin used to stand until its destruction in 1962.
The panorama of Prague seen from Letna park has been among my favorite places in Prague for years now!
Best art galleries in Holesovice
Holesovice is full of art galleries, some of the best ones in Prague. The area is especially known for modern and contemporary art.
When visiting Holesovice you can’t miss these places:
- DOX Center for Contemporary Art (Poupetova 1).
A former factory turned into the art gallery and multi-functional space that hosts some of the best exhibitions you can see in Prague. You can literally spend the whole day there!
I’ve seen a really good photo exhibition about Israel there, recently I’ve heard lots of good opinions about the exhibition on Vaclav Havel.
There is always something interesting going on!
- Veletržní palác (Dukelských Hrdinů 530/47) – part of the National Gallery, hosting the art of 20th and 21st century.
That’s where I’ve seen paintings of Gustav Klimt or Oskar Kokoschka for the first time in my life (it was pretty mindblowing!)
- Jatka 78 – the art space located in Prazska Trznice (Prague Market).
It mostly hosts contemporary circus performance, dance and puppet theater but there are occasional art exhibitions too
- Trafo Gallery – also located in Prazska Trznice, hall no. 14, connected with artists group “Trafacka”.
I’ve seen a very disturbing yet interesting exhibition there, with the theme “Life Is Painful and Breeds Disappointment”. Yes, it was just like it sounds.
- The Chemistry Gallery (Bubenská 1477/1) – focusing on the young, contemporary artists.
I was rather unlucky with the exhibition I’ve seen there as I didn’t get it at all but I’d definitely give the place another chance.
- Street art – you can find in Holesovice works by some of the best known European artists like Point, Pasta Oner or Mode 2.
Best spots are next to the entrance to Vltavska metro station, the building of DOX and Milady Horakove street. Click here to read more on Prague street art!
Where to eat in Holesovice?
Since the area is very hip and popular you will find lots of food options to choose from, mostly the modern bistros urban food.
Here is where I ate and can recommend:
- Lokal (Nad Královskou oborou 232/31). A popular chain restaurant serving typical Czech food.
- Home Kitchen (Jankovcova 14a).
- Bistro 8 (Veverkova 1410/8)
- The Farm (Korunovační 17)
- Bar Cobra (M. Horákové 688/8)
- Cross Club (Plynární 1096/23). The epic and well known cafe / pub / club where you can grab something to eat too.
Other places that I haven’t checked yet but have really good ratings include Tràng An Restaurace, Phill’s Twenty7, Naše toustárna, SaSaZu, Hillbilly, Mr.HotDoG, Ristorantino da Matteo, Klub AVU.
Where to go for a coffee in Holesovice?
Holesovice is the cafes’ heaven! You will find some of the best cafes in Prague in that very district!
My favorite was definitely Cafe Jedna – a big bright space located in Veletrzni Palac.
But I bet the majority of cafes you would step in are amazing, that’s how this area is.
The new places are opening on regular basis, during my last visit the newest addition to the area was Barry Higgel’s coffeehouse (pretty great place!).
In Holesovice you will also fine the first bitcoin cafe in the world – Paralelni Polis!
As always my best source of information about cafes was Foursquare app.
Where to shop in Holesovice?
Veverkova street is where the best boutiques can be found, it was also recently praised by The New York Times!
But there are small, interesting shops spread all over the districts so again wandering aimlessly around might be your best way to find true gems.
If you’re interested in the best Czech designers then Vnitroblock is the best place you can visit!
There are also flea markets in the neighborhood, I happened to stumble across one in Tovarna.
Where to relax in Holesovice?
Holesovice is home to two of the most beautiful parks in Prague: Letna and Stromovka. Both are perfect to relax.
Letna offers you amazing views over Prague Old Town (that you can enjoy over a drink in the beer garden) and Stromovka – the largest park in the city – is where mostly locals hang out.
If you decide to spend summer in Prague you just have to visit both places!
If the weather isn’t on your side you can visit one of the above-mentioned galleries or go to the cinema.
Holesovice is home to Bio Oko, one of the best independent cinemas you will ever see!
The selection of the movies is on a very high level here, many of them are in the original version or with the English subtitles.
But Bio Oko isn’t only a cinema, it’s the active cultural institution with numerous events and festivals.
There is also a great bar so you can stop by even without seeing the movie!
Where to stay in Holesovice?
I’ve already stayed a couple of places in Holesovice/Letna area: random hotels, apartments and eventually Sir Toby’s Hostel.
I’ve been to that hostel before, grabbing a beer with friends in the basement bar. That was already a good reason for me to return there the next time I visit Prague.
And now I can’t imagine a better accommodation option in Holesovice!
Sir Toby’s is one of the oldest (celebrating the 18th birthday this year!) and best-known hostels in Prague.
As I’ve mentioned a couple of times before – I love staying at hostels as they are the best way you can meet people when you travel solo but I’m not so fond of dorms anymore.
At Sir Toby’s you can choose between dormitories and private rooms – of course, I went for the second option and I just loved my room!
It was bright, spacious, practical (big thumbs up for tea and coffee provided!) and carefully designed with all the small details that made it so special.
The private rooms at Sir Toby’s are located on the top floor so there is no need to worry about the place being loud!
After a busy day exploring Holesovice it was so good to return there, I enjoyed the place so much!
But the rooms aren’t the only great thing about Sir Toby’s hostel.
As soon as you enter the property you’re in the carefully designed space with all the tiny details that made me fall for the place.
The reception area looks like a cozy living and the basement pub with the brick wall is a perfect place to chill out (and the good selection of best Czech beers definitely helps here!).
I stayed at Sir Toby’s in February so unfortunately, I couldn’t use the outdoor terrace but it is there and I can only imagine how great it must be in the summertime!
Click here to check out more details and book the place at Sir Toby’s Hostel!
Other recommended accommodation in Holesovice / Letna area:
- Mama Shelter Prague (9.0/10 on Booking) – highly rated for the cleanliness, comfort and facilities. Click here to read reviews and book the place!
- Absolutum Boutique Hotel (8.6/10 on Booking) – recommended for cleanliness, staff and comfort. Click here to check current deal and book the place!
- Residence Vysta (8.5/10 on Booking) – highly rated for the staff, cleanliness and value for the price. Click here to read more details and book the place!
One last word of explanation: I use the name “Holesovice” but the area I’m talking about basically covers Prague 7 – the district that consist of smaller areas – Holesovice and Letna are the cores here!
This really should be your next stop when you are in Prague!
Revolut bank card is the best way to save money when traveling. It’s a pre-paid service that offers very good exchange rates and no fees for ATM’s use. Click here to learn more and order your Revolut card.
You can find the best accommodation options at Booking. They have many discounts and excellent customer service. Click here to look for the place to stay in Prague
Never travel without travel insurance, you never know what might happen and better safe than sorry. You can check the insurance policy for the Czech Republic here.
I recommend joining organized tours to get to know the place better and to visit more places during your trip. You can find a great selection of tours at Get Your Guide – click here.
Make sure to have the offline map always installed on your phone, they can save you so many troubles. I always use the free app Maps.Me.
For the end I left a few announcements that might interest you:
- Sign up to my newsletter or follow me on Bloglovin to get updates about the new posts
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- I’ve included a few handy links of services and products I personally like and use so you can plan your own trip to Prague too. They are often affiliate links. This means I will get a small commission if you book/purchase anything through my links, at no extra costs for you. Thank you!
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Disclaimer: My trip was in partnership with Sir Toby’s Hostel but as always all opinions are 100% mine.
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wonderis02/04/2017 at 14:52
Amazing place! I wish to be there soon! :)
kami17/04/2017 at 19:38
fingers crossed you will be!
Lance Mentink02/04/2017 at 23:03
Looks like an interesting area… to bad about your passport… love your blog…
We will be coming to your part of the world in 2018. We will contact you for some help in travel planning.
That is quite a list you have for 2017… all the places you plan to visit. Have fun and safe travels… Lance
kami17/04/2017 at 19:39
Thank you! Definitely get in touch before your trip here, I will be happy to help!
Stefania04/04/2017 at 16:26
It looks like a super cool neighbourhood, really worth exploring to have a gist of the local life there. Prague is one of the few “big” capitals in Europe that I haven’t bee nto. I’ll make sure to check out Holesovice then!
kami17/04/2017 at 19:43
I hope you will visit Prague soon because it’s amazing! One of the best cities in the world, at least for me! And Holesovice is so cool, it’s always so much fun to hang out there!
7 Alternative Prague Insider Tips (with no tourists) - The Crowded Planet05/04/2017 at 17:07
[…] For an in-depth account of the distric, read Kami’s guide to Holesovice Prague. […]
Antonio22/08/2017 at 16:54
I’ve been to prague 2 times,I loved it both times of course :() I hope i’ll come again, and search some not so well known roads, and I’ll definitely use this article, thank you :) Btw, you should check “Honest Prague guide”, 2 guys from Prague making awesome videos about it
kami05/10/2017 at 08:25
Thank you! I will definitely take a look!
Eva07/03/2018 at 13:11
Wow, thanks for all your tips!
We’re visiting Prague in April and have visited the city before but were kinda let down by all tourist traps, so I can’t wait to explore more of the alternative side of the city!
ps. So glad to have found your blog, will follow you gladly <3
kami29/03/2018 at 21:08
Thank you! I love Prague but in recent years it became too touristy and crowded for me. That’s why places like Holesovice are amazing. Other areas you should check are Vrsovice (especially around Krymska street), Zizkov, Vinohrady or Karlin!
Michael18/07/2018 at 09:12
Have lived in Prague for three years but haven’t really ventured much to that part of town – I live on the other side of the river and it has been too easy to get caught in a ‘Zizkov bubble’ (Zizkov is another really interesting, cool area for those reading).
I’m heading there today to explore and try some of your recommendations however!
kami11/08/2018 at 12:48
I adore Zizkov too! It’s such an amazing area and my second favorite, after Holesovice! Let me know how you like Praha 7, I’m really curious now! :)
Minu29/08/2018 at 16:03
I will visit prague on 6th september and i will be in sir tobys hostel .i want know how its the nightlife aroud !!
kami14/09/2018 at 13:35
Sorry for getting back to you that late. I think the great staff at Sir Toby’s told you everything about the area!
David03/10/2019 at 07:58
It’s not as cool as it looks in the pictures. I have been visiting Prague about 10 times a year since 1999 and everything is changing. All the time … now some places are used for weird things. The people who live there are ordinary Prague city dwellers. What they all do not want are young travelers, who do not respect the given conditions and want to pollute the city or hang out somewhere in a corner. It is a clean place. Newly renovated and some coffee shops and the hostels are ready to use. Youshould come to see it, but with silent respect for all who live there.
Peter coppens13/12/2019 at 15:04
We followed your guide but we didn’t see the things you write about. Shops you talk about don’t excist anymore. The other areas of Prague are very touristic with all the same shops, Burger Kings and Starbucks everywhere. Prague was very underwhelming in my opinion. This guide needs a update.
kami17/12/2019 at 09:56
Thank you for your comment. Do you remember which places don’t exist anymore. I’m returning to Prague soon so I will make sure to update this article.
Chris31/12/2019 at 07:22
I live in Prague, I actually live exactly in Holesovice. Tovarna seems like it is closed, but everything else you mention in the article is open. I’d love to make some suggestions to places you didn’t list in the article.
– Alchymista: It’s one of the most beautiful cafés in the entire city, let alone Prague 7, you absolutely have to go. The garden in summer is to die for and the interior is stunning. Their drinks are super special and at great prices too.
– Kavarna Liberal: you took a picture of it but didn’t list it, the place looks super cozy and nice
– Café Pod Lipami: I haven’t been yet but looks amazing from the outside, it’s also on one of the most beautiful streets in the area (this and the adjacent Smeralova)
– Café Lajka: just opposite the academy of music which is absolutely stunning with a view over the Stromovka park, this place has nice coffee and drink options
– Cat Café: if you like cats, there is a cat café on Smerlova. I can’t find it on google maps, but the place is super cute if you’re into that :)
To be honest I am not a fan of Czech food and I do not think Prague 7 has amazing food options, but one restaurant that looks interesting is very close to Veletrzni Palac but hidden as it is on a side street: U Kohouta. Small, beautiful place, with a beer menu that changes daily.
I also like Holesovicka Sedma, in particular the fish and chips satisfy me every time. If you’re into vegan food, there is a vegan restaurant on Smeralova.
Zaletná Sova: one of my absolute favorite wine bars in Prague, prices are very low, the interior design is super cozy with the theme being owls, and it’s never crowded, nice staff
Prosekarna Letna: I love bubbly drinks, and this is a super stylish bar that offers prosecco and other nice drinks. Great lounge music and affordable prices
I absolutely love Prague 7, I might be partial because I live in it but I truly think it is one of the best parts of town. Very frustrating is when people say it is far away from the city center when it isn’t at all – but I guess that’s what makes it an affordable neighborhood to live in still. Thanks for your content Kami!
kami13/01/2020 at 12:22
Thank you so much for your comment and for all the suggestions, Chris! I so need to go back there and check all the places you’ve mentioned :) And come on, Holesovice isn’t far away from the center! People are crazy saying that! All the best!
Barry13/11/2021 at 19:59
Today we visited Veverkova street. There were maybe 2 boutiques; furthermore it was a rather average, even sad street (without any further shops). Are you sure you quoted the right street?!
kami25/11/2021 at 18:31
I’m sure. But I was there pre-covid so maybe it has changed recently. I’m hoping to revisit Prague soon when the situation allows, also to update this guide, so hopefully I will have better info then.