kamila

Can't live without travels! Wherever she goes she always looks for alternative spots or street art. A huge fan of Central Europe and off the beaten path places and a living proof that you can balance full time job and extensive travel!

A mini guide to Zizkov – Prague’s most authentic district

(Last Updated On: 08/11/2018)

Most people who visit Prague focus only on the picture-perfect Old Town, Mala Strana and Hradcany. And while those places are beautiful and make people fall in love with Czech capital there are also other neighbourhoods in the city that are the reason why Prague is among my favourite cities in the world, the one I often return to!

One of these places, besides Holesovice that I adore, is Zizkov. That’s the alternative area of Prague, a former working-class district, the most authentic neighbourhood of the Czech capital and the quintessence of its awesomeness.


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A brief background of Zizkov Prague

Located behind the main train station Zizkov Prague until 1922 was a separated city. It was built in the way to squeeze as many people as possible in the very small space, hence the area is full of narrow, usually steep streets and high tenement houses.

It has always been an alternative, edgy place and the residents – most of them were workers, wretches, drunks, madmen and artists – were very proud of the bad reputation Zizkov has. Up until now it is often called “Free Republic Zizkov”.

Sadly, as it often is in this kind of places, the neighbourhood is going through gentrification and is slowly changing towards more wealthy area. But so far it still has its authentic, unique vibe that so many people look for in Prague and a place where some cool street art can be found!

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What to see in Zizkov

Zizkov makes a perfect getaway from crowds in the Old Town and a offers a great chance to see the real Prague. That’s where the life goes by in its own pace, where the atmosphere is much more authentic and where you can meet local people in one of the pubs (Zizkov is number one district in Europe when it comes to the quantity of pubs, there’re over 300 of them in such a small area!).

Of course eating options are much better and more affordable here too! After stuffing yourself with delicious Czech food and even more awesome Czech beer you can wander around some more. That’s also one of my favorite areas to stay at in Prague.

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Be sure to check the former train track, now a walking, biking and roller skating path at the bottom of Vitkov hill – not only it’s a pure pleasure to walk there but also you can take a look at the back of the tenement houses and have a small impression of the life in Zizkov!

While you are there go up to Vitkov hill for some of the amazing views of Prague. But the panorama isn’t the only reason why it’s worth to visit the hill. You will find there the National Monument in Vitkov that, besides the mausoleum of Klement Gottwald and the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, is home to the third largest equestrian statue in the world – of Jan Žižka (a Czech general who died in 1424).

But the most known attraction of Zizkov Prague is the TV tower that looks like a big drill. You can see it from most of the points in the city and it has become some sort of the symbol of modern Prague. The tower is also famous for the giant children climbing to the top – it’s one of the works of the controversial Czech artists David Cerny.

Not far from the Zizkov tower you will find Riegrovy Sady – one of the hidden gems of Prague, visited mostly by locals. This green oasis in the heart of the city offers not only good areas to relax (like the beer garden) but also some amazing views of Prague. It’s best to be here around the sunset for the best pictures and most vibrant atmosphere.

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Where to eat and drink in Zizkov

Zizkov is full of bars, cafes and restaurants. Below you can find some of the best of them:

Cafes:

  • Žižkavárna – Kubelíkova 17
  • Prádelna Cafe – Slavíkova 21
  • My Coffee Story – Štítného 8
  • Café Pavlač – Víta Nejedlého 23
  • Peter’s Apartment – Slavíkova 24
  • Bars:

  • U Kurelů – Chválova 1
  • Bukowski’s Bar – Bořivojova 86
  • Vlkova 26 – Vlkova 26
  • U Vystřelenýho oka – U božích bojovníků 606/3
  • Malkovich Bar – Bořivojova 100
  • Restaurants:

  • U Houdků – Bořivojova 693/110
  • U Vystřelenýho oka – U božích bojovníků 606/3
  • The Tavern – Chopinova 1521/26
  • Bibimbap Korea – Seifertova 612/89
  • Střecha – Milíčova 25
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    Where to stay in Zizkov Prague

    I highly recommend finding the accommodation in Zizkov. You are far away from the crowds yet with good public transport connections to the main Prague attractions. When staying in Zizkov you can get a taste of the real Prague and not only the Disneyland-alike center. Moreover the prices in Zizkov are so much more affordable!

    These are the places to stay in Zizkov you should consider:

  • Hostel One Prague (8.7/10 on Booking) – valued for staff, facilities and free wifi. Click here for more details
  • Hotel Columbo (8.4/10 on Booking) – highly rated for staff, cleanliness and good value for money. You can find more details here.
  • Carlton (8.6/10 on Booking) – recommended for cleanliness, comfort and good value for money. Click here for more details.
  • How to get to Zizkov

    Public transport in Prague is very good and you can easily get to Zizkov from most of the places in Prague. From the main train station you can take trams no 5, 9, 15 and 26 (one-three stops, depends where you are going). Before your trip I suggest you save on your phone the file with the map of Prague public transport – you can download it from the official website here. Once in Prague, depending on the lenght of your stay, get a 24 hours (110CZK), 3 days (310CZK) or 30 days (550CZK) ticket and enjoy the unlimited public transport rides.

    Tours in Zizkov

    If you would like to have a local showing you around Zizkov there are some tours available for you to join:

  • Žižkov Neighborhood Bar Tour
  • Prague: 2–Hour Hangover Tour
  • Prague Under Totalitarianism: 3-Hour Historical Tour – only part of it is in Zizkov
  • Prague Private 3-Hour Tour by Vintage Trabant
  • Prague: 3-Hour Alternative Walking Tour – that’s not in Zizkov really but it’s a great tour to see a different face of Prague, I really enjoyed it!
  • I am also offering travel planning services so if you would like my help with planning your trip to Prague, including Zizkov, get in touch with me so we can discuss the details. You will find more information here.

    Zizkov Prague in pictures

    And to give you a proper idea of how Zizkov looks like below you will find a little photo walk through the neighbourhood.

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    Zizkov Prague

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    Zizkov Prague


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    7 Wrz '14

    There are 6 Comments.

    1. Nikita
      13:36 23/01/2015

      I currently live in Zizkov and could not have chosen a better neighbourhood! The street ar, the pubs, the narrow streets.. Great to see it getting some love!

      • kami
        22:46 26/01/2015

        I love Zizkov!!! I was in Prague this weekend and again spent a big part of my time over there :) Zizkov is addictive :)

    2. Mario Falzon
      14:13 07/06/2016

      Whenever I visited Prague, I always stayed in the chic district of Bila Hora, an area of villas, green spaces and big thoroughfares. Last year however, accommodation in Bila Hora (where villa owners rent rooms to visitors) was scarce when I visited and so, I had to search for a room elsewhere. Without actually knowing where I was heading to, I took Tram 9 from the stop on Vaclavske namesti and after a short uphill ride that bypassed Hlavni nadrazi, I found myself in the district of Zizkov. At first glance, the place seemed to be a derelict run-down area frequented by delinquents, crooks and unemployed. I asked passers-by for hostel accommodation but nobody seemed to know that visitors need a room where to sleep. After walking downhill for a couple of minutes, I stumbled upon a hostel, appropriately named Prague Hostel. I was given a warm welcome and offered a simple clean room for next to nothing. I stayed here for 7 days enjoying both the hostel atmosphere as well as the general grubby ambience of Zizkov. Whenever I’ll visit Prague, I will return to Zizkov to stay and live as the locals do.

      • kami
        21:32 21/06/2016

        Zizkov is one of my favorite areas to stay in Prague too!

    3. Emma
      12:42 15/02/2017

      I’m going to Prague for a few days next month so reading your posts on Prague has been very interesting :)

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