Czech Republic

A mini guide to Zizkov – Prague’s most authentic district

(Last Updated On: 06/09/2019)

Most people who visit Prague focus only on the picture-perfect Old Town, Mala Strana and Hradcany.

And while those places are beautiful and make people fall in love with Czech capital there are also other neighborhoods in the city that are the reason why Prague is among my favorite cities in the world, the one I often return to!

One of these places, besides Holesovice that I adore, is Zizkov.

That’s the alternative area of Prague, a former working-class district, the most authentic neighbourhood of the Czech capital and the quintessence of its awesomeness.

A brief background of Zizkov Prague

Located behind the main train station Zizkov Prague until 1922 was a separated city. It was built in the way to squeeze as many people as possible in the very small space, hence the area is full of narrow, usually steep streets and high tenement houses.

It has always been an alternative, edgy place and the residents – most of them were workers, wretches, drunks, madmen and artists – were very proud of the bad reputation Zizkov has.

Up until now it is often called “Free Republic Zizkov”.

Sadly, as it often is in this kind of places, the neighbourhood is going through gentrification and is slowly changing towards more wealthy area.

But so far it still has its authentic, unique vibe that so many people look for in Prague and a place where some cool street art can be found!

What to see in Zizkov

Zizkov makes a perfect getaway from crowds in the Old Town and offers a great chance to see the real Prague.

That’s where the life goes by in its own pace, where the atmosphere is much more authentic and where you can meet local people in one of the pubs (Zizkov is number one district in Europe when it comes to the number of pubs, there’re over 300 of them in such a small area!).

Of course eating options are much better and more affordable here too!

After stuffing yourself with delicious Czech food and even more awesome Czech beer you can wander around some more. That’s also one of my favorite areas to stay at in Prague.

Be sure to check the former train track, now walking, biking and roller skating path at the bottom of Vitkov hill – not only it’s a pure pleasure to walk there but also you can take a look at the back of the tenement houses and have a small impression of the life in Zizkov!

While you are there go up to Vitkov hill for some of the amazing views of Prague. But the panorama isn’t the only reason why it’s worth to visit the hill.

You will find there the National Monument in Vitkov that, besides the mausoleum of Klement Gottwald and the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, is home to the third-largest equestrian statue in the world – of Jan Žižka (a Czech general who died in 1424).

But the most known attraction of Zizkov Prague is the TV tower that looks like a big drill. You can see it from most of the points in the city and it has become some sort of the symbol of modern Prague.

The tower is also famous for the giant children climbing to the top – it’s one of the works of the controversial Czech artists David Cerny.

Not far from the Zizkov tower you will find Riegrovy Sady – one of the hidden gems of Prague, visited mostly by locals.

This green oasis in the heart of the city offers not only good areas to relax (like the beer garden) but also some amazing views of Prague.

It’s best to be here around the sunset for the best pictures and most vibrant atmosphere.

Where to eat and drink in Zizkov

Zizkov is full of bars, cafes and restaurants. Below you can find some of the best of them:

Cafes:

  • Žižkavárna – Kubelíkova 17
  • Prádelna Cafe – Slavíkova 21
  • My Coffee Story – Štítného 8
  • Café Pavlač – Víta Nejedlého 23
  • Peter’s Apartment – Slavíkova 24

Bars:

  • U Kurelů – Chválova 1
  • Bukowski’s Bar – Bořivojova 86
  • Vlkova 26 – Vlkova 26
  • U Vystřelenýho oka – U božích bojovníků 606/3
  • Malkovich Bar – Bořivojova 100

Restaurants:

  • U Houdků – Bořivojova 693/110
  • U Vystřelenýho oka – U božích bojovníků 606/3
  • The Tavern – Chopinova 1521/26
  • Bibimbap Korea – Seifertova 612/89
  • Střecha – Milíčova 25

Where to stay in Zizkov Prague

I highly recommend finding the accommodation in Zizkov.

You are far away from the crowds yet with good public transport connections to the main Prague attractions.

When staying in Zizkov you can get a taste of the real Prague and not only the Disneyland-alike center. Moreover the prices in Zizkov are so much more affordable!

These are the places to stay in Zizkov you should consider:

How to get to Zizkov

Public transport in Prague is very good and you can easily get to Zizkov from most of the places in Prague.

From the main train station you can take trams no 5, 9, 15 and 26 (one-three stops, depends where you are going).

Before your trip I suggest you save on your phone the file with the map of Prague public transport – you can download it from the official website here.

Once in Prague, depending on the lenght of your stay, get a 24 hours (110CZK), 3 days (310CZK) or 30 days (550CZK) ticket and enjoy the unlimited public transport rides.

Tours in Zizkov

If you would like to have a local showing you around Zizkov there are some tours available for you to join:

Zizkov Prague in pictures

And to give you a proper idea of how Zizkov looks like below you will find a little photo walk through the neighbourhood.

Zizkov Prague

Zizkov Prague

Zizkov Prague

Zizkov Prague

Zizkov Prague

Zizkov Prague

Zizkov Prague

Zizkov Prague

Zizkov Prague

Zizkov Prague

Zizkov Prague

Zizkov Prague

Zizkov Prague

Zizkov Prague

Zizkov Prague

Zizkov Prague

Zizkov Prague

Zizkov Prague

Zizkov Prague

Zizkov Prague

Zizkov Prague

Zizkov Prague

Zizkov Prague

Zizkov Prague

Zizkov Prague

Zizkov Prague

Zizkov Prague

Zizkov Prague

Zizkov Prague

Zizkov Prague

Zizkov Prague

Zizkov Prague

Zizkov Prague

Zizkov Prague

Zizkov Prague

Zizkov Prague

Zizkov Prague

Zizkov Prague


Travel resources

With over 15 years of independent traveling, I’ve learned which websites and services are the best when planning a trip. I always use and trust the following websites:

Money – My number one tip for everyone is to start using Revolut bank card to save money when traveling.

You get the card by mail within a few days and you can use it all over the world. You top up the card in the app on the phone, where you can also have accounts in different currencies and exchange money between them, for no extra fee and at very favorable rates. Everything is super easy and fast, you only need an internet connection to manage your accounts in the app.

Revolut supports over 140 currencies and offers free withdrawal from ATMs all over the world. In the first 6 months I’ve used Revolut card in 12 countries in 3 continents and had no issues at all. And I saved a lot of money in the exchange rates!

Click here to learn more about the service and order your own Revolut card!

Accommodation – I always book my accommodation through Booking.com.

They have really good deals (especially with their “Genius” program that you become a member of after few reservations) and in most of the cases, if your plans change, you can cancel the reservation without any extra costs.

I also value them for a really good customer service that I had to use a few times.

Check the best deals on accommodation in Zizkov here!

Insurance – I never travel without the insurance as you never know what might happen on the road and better safe than sorry (I’ve learnt my lesson).

I can recommend World Nomads that offer the insurance dedicated to travelers just like you and me.

Click here to get the insurance policy for Czech Republic here.

Day tours – I do go for a day trips when I travel as often they are the most convenient way to see the place that saves you time and money.

I most often use Get Your Guide that offers a variety of tours all over the world. Click here to check all the best tours you can take during your travels!

Offline maps – For years I’ve been using MAPS.ME app and I can’t recommend it enough!

It’s free, works offline perfectly fine and saved me many times. You can easily transfer Google Maps with all the bookmarks to maps.me and use them offline wherever you are.

Click here to download it to your phone before your next trip!


For the end I left a few announcements that might interest you:

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  • I’ve included a few handy links of services and products I personally like and use so you can plan your own trip to Czech Republic too. They are often affiliate links. This means I will get a small commission if you book/purchase anything through my links, at no extra costs for you. If you like what you are reading and seeing here and would like to support me and my blog please consider using those links. It would be like getting me a virtual drink that you don’t have to pay for! Thanks!

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8 Comments

  • Reply
    Nikita
    23/01/2015 at 13:36

    I currently live in Zizkov and could not have chosen a better neighbourhood! The street ar, the pubs, the narrow streets.. Great to see it getting some love!

    • Reply
      kami
      26/01/2015 at 22:46

      I love Zizkov!!! I was in Prague this weekend and again spent a big part of my time over there :) Zizkov is addictive :)

  • Reply
    Mario Falzon
    07/06/2016 at 14:13

    Whenever I visited Prague, I always stayed in the chic district of Bila Hora, an area of villas, green spaces and big thoroughfares. Last year however, accommodation in Bila Hora (where villa owners rent rooms to visitors) was scarce when I visited and so, I had to search for a room elsewhere. Without actually knowing where I was heading to, I took Tram 9 from the stop on Vaclavske namesti and after a short uphill ride that bypassed Hlavni nadrazi, I found myself in the district of Zizkov. At first glance, the place seemed to be a derelict run-down area frequented by delinquents, crooks and unemployed. I asked passers-by for hostel accommodation but nobody seemed to know that visitors need a room where to sleep. After walking downhill for a couple of minutes, I stumbled upon a hostel, appropriately named Prague Hostel. I was given a warm welcome and offered a simple clean room for next to nothing. I stayed here for 7 days enjoying both the hostel atmosphere as well as the general grubby ambience of Zizkov. Whenever I’ll visit Prague, I will return to Zizkov to stay and live as the locals do.

    • Reply
      kami
      21/06/2016 at 21:32

      Zizkov is one of my favorite areas to stay in Prague too!

  • Reply
    Emma
    15/02/2017 at 12:42

    I’m going to Prague for a few days next month so reading your posts on Prague has been very interesting :)

    • Reply
      kami
      21/02/2017 at 22:31

      Thank you. I hope you will have a wonderful trip!

  • Reply
    Deborah Sams
    06/09/2019 at 00:36

    We were in Prague last month and fell in love with it. We did a night tour and went up in the tower on our last evening in Prague. I look forward to my next trip there.
    I, also, like travel, street art, and cafes. Will check out your newsletter.

    • Reply
      kami
      15/09/2019 at 15:43

      It sounds like you had a wonderful time in Prague, Deborah. I’m glad to hear that!

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