When I was telling everyone about my plans they were really suspicious and concerned about my safety, just like it was with my recent trip to Iran.
After all, media keep telling us how Ukraine is a war zone these days and we all remember the tragic story of Malaysian Airlines flight shot down.
So is it safe to travel to Ukraine?
Table of contents
The situation in Ukraine
Yes, there’s a war in Ukraine. Eastern part of the country (around cities of Donetsk and Lugansk) is a big “don’t go there” zone.
If your common sense doesn’t give you enough signs to check the website of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, there’ll be a warning issued for sure.
But Ukraine is a huge country, one of the biggest in Europe and if you plan to go to Kyiv or west there’s nothing to be worried about (actually from Kyiv it’s closer to Poland than to Donetsk).
Life goes normally there, people stroll down the streets and walk around in parks, cafes are full, a disturbingly big number of huge fancy weddings take place around and you don’t notice that the country you’re in has so many troubles.
Sometimes you only stumble across the exhibition of pictures from Maidan – tragic events in winter 2014 in Kyiv or are ask people to donate money for the army.
Is it safe to travel to Ukraine?
In short: YES!
I don’t have a good explanation for that but I’d guess it’s due to the bigger presence of police and the fact that these countries aren’t that spoiled yet, people are simply normal, good and less busy there (ok, I know it’s just simplifying but that’s how I see it).
While in the Western world people spend their free time in shopping centers or behind the computer screens in Eastern Europe it’s more about being outdoors and hanging out with friends/family.
Anyway, I can’t count how many times I’ve been to Ukraine by now and I don’t recall even one situation when I thought something is wrong and when I felt in danger.
And while it was perfectly safe before the revolution now it seemed to be even safer and the presence of the police of army was even bigger but they didn’t disturb anyone.
Of course, like always and everywhere, use your common sense in every situation, if you feel unsafe don’t push yourself to keep going.
I, for example, don’t feel very comfortable walking in the evening in new places but never had this problem in Ukraine (I’m talking about 8-10pm walks, not in the middle of the night).
No one really bothered me on the streets but when I asked for directions or the right bus there were at least few people around willing to help me, sometimes I didn’t even have to ask and they were already helping.
Ukraine really is a normal country, only maybe with bigger problems than anywhere else. But tourists won’t feel the difference from other places in the region.
Every now and then I read news about some protests or attacks in Ukrainian cities that are supposed to be safe.
Well, of course, this kind of things will be happening as the situation in the country is very tense, the local people are tired and just want to live normally.
It’s best for tourists to avoid any kind of events that might result in some troubles.
But places that used to be a scene of tragic events a year ago now just sit quietly in the corner of everyday life and no one really seems to pay attention to them.
When I went by the Trade Union House in Odessa – the building where in May 2014 48 people died in the fire during the clashes – I couldn’t see anything distinctive, it was just a building in the park, closed and surrounded by the fence painted in blue and yellow, colors of the Ukrainian flag.
Only when I looked closer I’ve noticed rosaries and burnt out candles hidden around small trees. The city has its dark and tragic days of revolution behind and now it is perfectly safe to visit Odessa.
How is travelling around Ukraine?
During my recent trip, I took both trains and buses, both day and night ones. And it was all fine.
Of course on the big and busy train stations, like the one in Odessa, you need to be extra cautious and keep your belongings close but still, I haven’t seen any suspicious people.
Same goes for the bus stations where it’s more tricky as you also need to find your bus (but there’ll be always someone willing to help you).
From Odessa to Lviv I took a night train and traveled in the cheapest class, my ticket for 12.5 hours journey cost around 160uah/7€/8$/28zł so almost nothing (and that also included bed linen and tea).
I don’t know how familiar you’re with platskart – it’s the type of the carriage when you don’t have compartments but it’s kind of like open space with beds.
You’d think it’s unsafe to travel in this kind of train but I took it before in other former USSR countries too and never had problems.
Actually, it feels much safer as there’re so many people around it’s almost impossible to steal something, besides every carriage has its own guard.
My train was fully booked but already at 8 pm everyone was in bed and at 9.30pm all the lights were turned off and people went to sleep.
My only concern there was how safe sleeping on the upper bed it as there was no protection and I was paranoid I will fall down. But after all, I had a really good sleep there!
As for driving: roads aren’t in the best conditions, the same goes for buses. But it was all fine.
The drivers aren’t crazy there (like in Georgia or the Balkans) and even if I’m really afraid of cars and buses all the bus journeys I took there were just random ones, not worth remembering.
Only the comfort could have been better in some marshrutkas but on the other hand that makes traveling in Eastern Europe more adventurous.
Accommodation in Ukraine
In Chernivtsi and Odessa, I stayed in the hostels and I had a feeling I’m the only tourist (and especially foreign tourist) there yet both places were full. It looked like people are living there, that’s also what I figured from some kitchen conversations.
But then I read somewhere that in bigger cities in Ukraine these days it’s cheaper to stay in the hostel dorm that to rent a room in the flat so many people who come to work live in those tourist-orientated places. Kind of unusual situation for people traveling but I didn’t have a problem with that.
I always stayed in single rooms and the highest price I paid was in Kamianets Podilskyi (that was a hotel though) – 300 uah/14$/12.5€/53zł and that was a really good room!
In the hostels, you can get a bed in the dorm for half of that price. I always book my accommodation through Booking.com.
Where to stay in Ukraine?
In Kyiv I recommend you stay in the center, somewhere near Khreschatyk. You will be close to all the attractions and with very good public transport connections just about everywhere!
In Lviv, there is no better place to stay than Hotel George. It’s the oldest hotel in Lviv, still having the charm of old days when most important people in the world stayed there.
The location is perfect and it’s much more affordable than you think! Since my first visit, I’m not staying anywhere else in Lviv!
In Odessa, it depends what you’re interested in.
If you’re after relaxing at the beach then part of the town called Arkadia would be the best for you but if you’re into sightseeing then the center – area between the train station and the harbor – is where you should stay!
If you decide to go to Chernivtsi (highly recommended!!) stay in the center – you will be within walking distance to all the attractions!
In Kamianets Podilskyi try to stay in the part close to the fortress, in kind of the peninsula surrounded by Smotrych river. The majority of the attractions are there!
Finally, if you go in Ivano-Frankivsk book yourself at Atrium Hotel. It’s located directly at the Main Square, rooms are brand new and spacious, the breakfast is included and it is very affordable! I really liked it there!
Solo female travel in Ukraine
This recent trip was my first one as a solo female traveler in Ukraine and to be honest it wasn’t any different from my previous visits with friends there or from my solo travels to any other country.
There’s nothing special you should consider there, just follow the general rules for women traveling on their own, use your common sense and you will be fine!
Should I go to Ukraine?
If you keep asking yourself this question as well as is it safe to travel to Ukraine my only answer is YES!
Just stick to the central and western part of the country and you will be fine and you will have a great time!
Ukraine is really beautiful and has so much to offer: underrated Kyiv (here you can find my top 5 places to see there), Odessa – now the main resort, Kamianets Podilskyi with its spectacular fortress, Chernivtsi and its multicultural past or Lviv – one of the most beautiful cities in Europe and one of my absolute favorites.
Also, I don’t think you will find any other country in Europe that is such a bargain these days!
Due to the war, Ukraine deals with a big crisis and the currency – hrivna – is really weak. But that means travelers can get a really good value for almost no money (I never paid more than 50 uah / 2.5$ / 2€ / 10zł for a big lunch with drinks, you could see prices of transport and accommodation above).
Not only you will spend next to nothing for your holidays, but you will also bring some money to Ukraine, and that’s always a big help for the country and its people.
What others say about safety and travel in Ukraine
Since I don’t want to give you only my opinion about safety and travel in Ukraine I asked fellow travel bloggers and friends about their experience.
Here’s what they told me:
I have spent a significant amount of time in Ukraine and have been traveling there since 2011.
I have always felt very safe in the country and while there is violence in a small region of the country, everything outside of that is perfectly safe and you should travel just like you do anywhere else.
Most of my time has been spent in Eastern Ukraine (not Donbas itself) and I have traveled to Dnipro, Kharkiv, Zaporizhia, Kherson, and Kryvyi Rih (and some of them multiple times). I have also been to Kyiv quite a bit and in no city have I ever had issues.
I feel safe walking around, people are hospitable, and the country has so much to offer that it amazes me.
Visiting Ukraine is one of the best decisions you could make!
by Megan from meganstarr.com
I lived in Kyiv for over a year and a half between 2016 and 2017, and in that time I traveled solo extensively, from Lviv to Odessa to Kharkiv and many places between.
Not only did I feel safe 99% of the time, but also people were genuinely curious and helpful when they discovered I was a woman traveling alone in Ukraine.
I took overnight trains, stayed in hostels, and did my best with the minibus system.
I even felt comfortable going for a cocktail alone, something I don’t do typically in the States and ended up with friendships with several bartenders.
The biggest safety tip I have for travelers is to pay attention to scams and pickpockets in Kyiv. I never had any problems myself, but I heard stories of ‘lost’ passports and scams from my friends.
Just like in any city – keep your street smarts around you and your wallet secure and you should be fine!
by Amy from the Wayfarer’s Book
We visited Ukraine several years, traveling as a gay couple and didn’t face any problems. We don’t flaunt our sexuality in public and respect local norms/traditions in this regard.
Ukraine has a long way to go with regards to LGBTQ rights, but recent progress was made with anti-discrimination employment laws introduced in 2015.
We started our trip in Kyiv and discovered a small subtle gay scene there with bars/clubs like LIFT and Heaven.
Whilst being gay is still very much taboo here, the situation is not as bad as we found it in Russia.
As part of our stay in Kyiv, we visited Chernobyl, which offers tours around the nuclear plant that exploded, as well as the nearby ghost town of Pripyat, which was abandoned and frozen in time by its residents.
We also visited the Crimea, particularly Sevastopol, Sudak, and Yalta. We also found a small rocky gay-friendly beach just outside of Yalta, mainly full of Russian guys holidaying and enjoying the sunny weather.
Overall we found travelling around the country to be safe and fairly easy, despite the language barrier and lack of English speaking.
by Stefan and Sebastien from Nomadic Boys – a gay travel blog
When I announce that I’m going back home to London, no-one asks “Oh, is it safe there?” in the same way they do when I tell them I’m going to Kyiv.
The bottom line is that nowhere is 100% safe. But with a bit of common sense, (the same common sense I would suggest applying anywhere in the world), Ukraine is as safe a destination as any other.
I’ve traveled to Ukraine multiple times, from Lviv in the west to Dnipro in the east and to over twenty-five towns and cities in between and have never felt in danger.
“Isn’t there a war going on?”, usually comes next.
Yes, there is conflict in the far eastern Donbass region and my advice is to avoid this part of the country, but the rest of Eastern Ukraine is safe for tourists and travelers alike and is not listed as a no-go-zone by the British Foreign and Commonwealth Office (FCO) (I always look at such things from a British point-of-view but I suspect most governments take the same stance).
But everyone has their comfort zone, and for those who want to tentatively dip their toes into Ukraine’s vast and diverse waters, I would recommend Lviv.
I guarantee you’ll be instantly charmed and before long find yourself on the express train to Kyiv, and beyond…
by Kirsty from Kathmandu and Beyond
During my time in Ukraine, I visited three different cities- Lviv, Odessa and Kyiv.
As the conflict is occurring in far eastern Ukraine and the cities I visited were in central or far western Ukraine, I never felt in danger.
Every local did have an opinion about the war but that was as much as I ever knew the war was happening during my visit.
If you are planning to visit the most touristic cities of Ukraine, specifically the ones I mentioned, Ukraine is a safe country to visit.
You just have to use general travel safety habits, no different than anywhere else.
That being said, I would save a visit to eastern Ukraine for another time.
by Nathan from Foodie Flashpacker
Just one last word: this post shows my impressions and experience from the visit to Ukraine in mid-August 2015 and numerous following visits afterwards.
The situation can always change and before going I’d recommend checking with your Ministry of Foreign Affairs if there’re any warnings issued. With the current political situation there things can change fast.
But if you decide to go I can guarantee you won’t regret it!
Ukraine is really amazing! I’m already trying to plan my next trip there, I want to return to Kyiv really badly and explore the cafe culture of Lviv better!
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